The Basics of Arboreal Tarantula Husbandry

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10 Gallon Aquaria

bank of tens For spiders in excess of 4 in [10 cm] legspan I use 10 gallon aquaria oriented vertically [stood on end]. For the front I use ESU screen covers with latching doors [ESU #22105 (see product listing at end of article)]. I lay the screen top upside down on a table and use heavy duty clear packing tape to neatly cover all of the screen (sticky side out), except for the door. This will help prevent the rapid moisture loss and cover most of the screen, reducing the hazard of "tarsal claws" becoming stuck in the screen. If your tanks are housed in a humid area it might be necessary to remove some of the tape to provide good ventilation.

A water dish is added in the same manner as for the gallon jar. That is, it is glued 2/3-3/4 the way up one side so it close to a perching spider. It should also be located towards the front door to enable easy access during refilling or cup replacement. However, for the glass tanks I use All-Glass® aquarium silicone sealant instead of hot glue. Hot glue can still be used and it will allow you to cleanly remove the dish holder if necessary, but eventually the dish will fall because the glue doesn't bond as well to glass as plastic. Often I will find the perfect piece of cork bark and place it in the tank prior to gluing the dish holder so that I can position the dish up against the cork, which will later allow the spider to rest on the bark while drinking.

I use the same substrate—usually good old-fashioned dirt—and slope it towards the back so it is shallower in front and doesn't fall out before the cover (which is now the front) is added (see next paragraph for how to add a dam to prevent substrate escape). Once again, dry leaves, moss and other forest litter can be added and live or silk plants and cork bark can be arranged as you choose. For Poecilotheria I wedge a 19.75 in [50.2 cm] length of 1.5-2 in [3.8-5 cm] diameter bamboo from bottom to top (see discussion of retreats above).

If you wish to make the cage a bit more elaborate you can add a plastic dam across the bottom to allow for deeper substrate (see photos). To do this I use 1/8 inch thick clear acrylic and cut a piece that will span the width and sit in the channel of the molding that goes around what normally is the top of the aquarium. In other words the groove where a glass canopy would normally rest on a fish tank. I make this dam about three or four inches high and affix it with silicone aquarium sealant.

The final step is to attach the screen cover, which has already been lined from the inside with clear packing tape except for the door. Electrical tape is perfect for this; it stretches tight and blends in with the frame of the cover and the black plastic molding of the aquarium itself. If the taping is done neatly it will hardly be noticeable. Hold the cover tight against the tank and wrap across the top frame and around the tank until you overlap the entire front again and cleanly cut the tape. Repeat this process around the bottom.

Editor's Update: The above ten gallon tank is described in detail in Michael Jacobi's "Creating an Enclosure for Arboreal Tarantulas Using a Vertically-oriented 10-gallon Aquarium" in ARACHNOCULTURE E-ZINE ISSUE 4. Click here to view.

Naturalistic Vivaria Construction

Whereas I house my Poecilotheria in the aforementioned 10-gallon aquarium setups, with silk plants and no lighting other than that of the room, I often create more elaborate vivaria for New World arboreal tarantulas, particularly Avicularia, which often create silk retreats among bromeliads or other plants and benefit from the natural humidity created by live plants.

Avic vivarium Live plants require light, and unlike basic cages containing fake plants, the first consideration with naturalistic vivaria will be the addition of a light source. A variety of plants will do well in low light conditions, but some artificial light will be required to keep any flora alive, including live moss ground cover. Because tarantulas are nocturnal and usually shun bright light, it is best to use small compact fluorescent tubes for lighting and use fixtures small enough to allow a darker area in part of the cage. Expensive high ultraviolet fluorescent tubes designed for reptiles are unnecessary for arachnids, and a number of bulbs available at home centers will be sufficient for lighting and plant growth, including plant and aquarium, "sunshine" or "daylight", and cool white bulbs. Incandescent bulbs should be avoided as they waste much of the energy in the form of heat, which is often undesirable for tarantula husbandry.

A thorough discussion of using live plants and substrate is far beyond the scope of this article. In short, I like to use dirt on the bottom and slope it towards the back of the vivarium. Live plants can either be placed in this soil or left in small pots that will be hidden by the substrate. After adding the plants I cover the soil with a 1/2 in [13 mm] layer of damp orchid moss (sphagnum). On top of the orchid moss base is the third substrate layer—live moss. The orchid moss provides a bedding for the live moss to root in and wick moisture. Live moss placed directly on soil usually does not flourish and may die before long. Numerous plants can be used as long as they are rinsed of any pesticides or insecticides. Unless you have a great deal of experience with terrarium plants I recommend you stick to inexpensive and hardy plants from your local home center. Sansieveria, commonly known as the Snake Plant or Mother-in-Law's Tongue, requires a good deal of light, but has sturdy vertical leaves. Bromeliads such as Neoregelia or Aechmea are good, especially for Avicularia tarantulas. Good plants for lower light conditions include Pothos and Rhododendron.

Other decorations for naturalistic vivaria include those used in basic enclosures, such as cork bark, hollow logs and driftwood. When I collect live moss I also find a great deal of nice hollow limbs covered in moss and lichens. Natural-looking water dishes can be found at reptile shops and, with the help of aquarium-safe silicone sealant, attached to the side of the enclosure in a position where it is also supported from below by a vertical log or bark piece.

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