The Basics of Arboreal Tarantula Husbandry

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Feeding and Watering

I list feeding and watering together because I consider them to be two halves of a very important whole. Nourishment and hydration go hand in hand, and animals of all kinds receive much, if not all, of the water their bodies use from what they eat. Feeding often will all but eliminate the risk of dehydration. A frequent error made in arboreal tarantula husbandry is over watering, whether by soaked substrate, heavy misting or reduced ventilation in an attempt to provide "sufficient humidity". Humidity is a measure of moisture contained in the air, not one of substrate wetting or air exchange. Natural humidity comes from live plants and evaporating water dishes, and hydration comes from food and drink. A well fed spider is a hydrated spider. Still, every tarantula large enough to have a dish should have one filled at all times. The housing suggestions above describe different ways of providing elevated water bowls for arboreal tarantulas. Only spiders housed in rearing containers need water provided by other means. Misting, when correctly done, provides a simulation of rainfall and allows the spiders to drink from droplets as they would naturally. There are two things to avoid when misting: spraying the spider and saturating the substrate. A light misting that allows droplets to form on the vivarium sides and contents is all that is needed. If the substrate has not dried 24 hours later, the quantity of water used when misting must be reduced.

Arboreal tarantulas will accept most of the standard feeder insects such as roaches and crickets. Catching winged insects, such as katydids and moths, can provide some variety. Many larger arboreal tarantulas will eat lizards (e.g., anoles) and treefrogs, and even descend to the ground to snatch a nestling mouse or rat. As mentioned above, I am a firm believer in keeping tarantulas hydrated by feeding often. Frequency of feeding will depend on the type and size of prey offered, but I like to offer food, in my case primarily roaches, to spiderlings two or three times a week, juveniles once or twice a week, and adults weekly. In general, spiderlings will accept prey the length of their body once they have molted a few times, but should be offered prey slightly smaller than that for the early instar stages, especially for tiny young like Tapinauchenius.

Ventilation

In an effort to elevate relative humidity many keepers resort to reducing airflow through the vivarium. This is neither good for the spider or any live plants. Moisture can be easily added, but not removed. The use of live plants, full water dishes and appropriate misting will provide natural humidity for tarantulas. Stagnant air with poor ventilation will lead to a host of problems, including mites, flies, fungus and mold. I periodically spray a fair rainfall into my cages, but the substrate is not overly wet the following day. If low humidity is a problem I recommend using a room humidifier to increase the moisture in the air flowing through the vivarium rather than making things wetter within it.

Heating

My advice for heating vivaria for arboreal tarantulas is the same as that for all tarantulas; only provide supplemental heat if needed. In other words, having a warm room or closet is preferable than using heat tape or pads to provide heat, and as long as your tarantula is feeding well it is probably warm enough. In fact, in most cases, ambient (room) temperature is sufficient, especially if that room contains some reptile cages giving off their own heat. Generally, the hobbyist will have access to an area that fluctuates from 68-80°F [20-27°C]. If additional heat is required and cannot be provided with a space heater around the cages, heat mats or tape sold in reptile shops can be used, but should be controlled by a thermostat. For vertically-oriented tanks I like the small adhesive-backed mats such as the small or medium Exo-Terra® Heat Wave™ Rainforest mounted to the middle of the back of the vivarium.

Brief Overview of Species

Arboreal tarantulas are popularly considered to be only for experienced keepers due to their supposed delicate nature when young and their speed and temperament With the exception of some species of Avicularia, arboreal tarantulas are best kept with minimal keeper interaction and no handling. It is true that all species are very quick and some are very nervous. It is also true that some have what is believed to be the strongest of all tarantula venom, particularly the tiger spiders of Poecilotheria and their fellow Old World genera Heteroscodra and Stromatopelma. However, with a few considerations in mind most hobbyists will enjoy keeping these spiders. One is that a cage with a number of good retreats will typically result in a calmer spider that will run to hide rather than stand in defense. In a bare cage a startled tarantula may indeed run towards an exit made by opening the cage, but a well-designed cage will provide security that will be chosen over flight. Another is that servicing a cage should be performed with rubber-tipped forceps. Uneaten food, cast skins, and water cups can easily removed from a safe distance with this essential tool.

There are a number of other tarantulas that either have arboreal tendencies when young, yet later become terrestrial or burrowing (e.g., Ephebopus, Hysterocrates gigas), and others that are semi-arboreal (Haploclastus, Cyriopagopus schioedtei, Lampropelma violaceopes [aka C. sp. "Singapore"]) or occasional climbers, but theyÕll have to be covered in a future article.

New World

Avicularia — This genus contains some considerably docile species, such as A. avicularia and A. metallica, and are recommended for beginner arboreal tarantula keepers. Although jumpy, they are less so than many other congenerics (members of the same genus) and seldom bite when handled gently. Two species that generally have a more defensive nature and might very well bite are Avicularia braunshauseni and A. laeta. Avicularia are commonly referred to as "Pink Toes" or "Avics" and a number of species are available in the hobby including the technicolor A. versicolor and the big, woolly A. huriana. These spiders form silken tube retreats, often among vegetation, and quickly make nests in their cages. Avicularia spiderlings are usually easy to raise with the most common mistake being keeping them too damp. Avicularia may quickly dehydrate, but if they are fed often this risk is all but eliminated. A quick shower of a few droplets onto their silk retreat once or twice a week is recommended as well, but care must be taken to prevent constantly damp substrate.

Iridopelma — This genus contains three species. I. hirsutum is the one most prevalent in arachnoculture, but it is far from common.

Pachistopelma — This genus contains two small species that are rare in captivity.

Psalmopoeus — These spiders get large and usually have an attitude to match. From the orange-accented, olive P. cambridgei to the Halloween-colored P. irminia, these are impressive and beautiful display spiders. If disturbed they will quickly rear-up and not hesitate to strike, but if left alone they tend to settle down and remain in their retreats during cage maintenace.

Tapinauchenius — These are some of the fastest of all tarantulas. With the exception of T. gigas, they are generally smaller than other arboreal tarantulas except Pachistopelma and some Avicularia. Lacking the gaudy coloration of some of the other tree-dwelling theraphosids, "Taps" have a velvety sheen that ranges from bronze to silver to mahogany to purple. Spiderlings are small and require close attention. They should be fed often with small insects until they have molted several times.

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